Journal
Journal
May 08, 2023
Silicones in cosmetics: risks & alternatives
by Myriam Malka
Do short-term benefits of silicones outweigh the long-term effects
on people and planet health.
Sep 26, 2022
It’s Time to Clean Up Your (Skincare) Act
by Myriam Malka
Uncommon ways to treat common concerns
Nov 27, 2020
by Myriam Malka
Your Skin Microbiome: What It Is—and Why It’s Important
In recent years, the skin microbiome has gained recognition for its vital role in health and immunity. While research is still underway to delineate all of the various ways in which the skin microbiome plays a part in well-being, one thing is clear: Given that the skin is the body’s largest organ, a thriving skin microbiome is integral for supporting skin health and whole-body wellness. Ahead, we’re delving into the basics of the skin microbiome and how to best preserve and maintain this complex, ever-evolving ecosystem.
What is the skin microbiome?
The skin microbiome is a living collection of microbes—such as bacteria, fungi and viruses— that inhabit the surface of the skin. These microbes can vary widely in composition depending upon their location on the skin, as well as things like genetic makeup, diet and lifestyle choices. Despite these differences, two similarities endure: They tend to thrive in acidic environments—the skin’s optimal pH level is around 5.5—and they collectively number about 1.5 trillion in total. And while the notion of billions of unseen-visitors may be unsettling, they’re not just friendly: they’re hardworking, essential elements of skin health.
What does the skin microbiome do?
It’s an answer that is being refined and expanded upon daily through advances in science and medicine, but we know that the skin microbiome functions in several important ways. For one, it helps to maintain the skin’s acidic pH balance, inhibiting the growth of “bad” bacteria. Bad bacteria thrives in more alkaline environments and can cause a host of skin issues, including eczema and acne. Furthermore, the skin microbiome creates a physical barrier against foreign pathogens, playing a key role in immunity.
This relationship is certainly more than skin-deep, too: emerging research around the immune system and the skin microbiome reveals that the two systems actually communicate with each other, engaging in “cross-talk” to both inhibit and manage inflammation. The dynamic between microbes and the immune system is still being explored, but has tremendous implications for immunity.
How can you support a healthy skin microbiome?
One of the most dazzling aspects of the skin microbiome is that it is utterly unique to the individual—much like a fingerprint, no two are alike. Yet a common aspect of all health skin microbiomes is a flourishing diversity of microbes. We can support—or hinder—the growth of skin-supporting healthy bacteria through simple, thoughtful decisions. For example, products with synthetic preservatives—meant to ward off “bad” bacteria—can also kill off the good bacteria and fungi that encompass our microbiome, dismantling this living ecosystem in the process.
Similarly, formulas with harsh detergent soaps can alter the pH level of the skin, thus making it less habitable for friendly flora. In fact, one study shows that the majority of conventional soaps have a pH level of between 9-10—far above the optimal skin pH balance of 5-5.5. Furthermore, existing healthy bacteria can be supported with products that contain either prebiotics (fertilizer for bacteria) or probiotics (live bacterial elements). As such, seeking out personal care products that preserve the skin microbiome is a simple first line of defense to caring for skin flora.
A healthy skin microbiome with Ingredients®
Ingredients® skin essentials were developed with the skin microbiome in mind using only organic, plant-based ingredients to infuse the skin with supportive vitamins, minerals, amino acids, essential fatty acids, probiotics and antioxidants—the essential building blocks of health. In lieu of artificial preservatives, we utilize plant probiotics (lactobacillus ferment), which are powerful agents that preserve a formula differently than synthetic preservatives. Unlike the former, they do not kill bacteria and fungi; rather, they hinder the growth of bacteria and suppress the development of the bad bacteria and fungi in a given formula. In working this way, they help to both maintain and fortify the pH integrity of the skin microbiome. Free from synthetic additives and detergents, all of our formulas are intentionally developed for human skin—and for the friendly inhabitants that call skin their home, too.
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Nov 27, 2020
Our Plant-Based Regimen for Healthy Skin
by Myriam Malka
At Ingredients®, we believe that healthy skin begins and ends with a holistic approach to care. Any regimen should work in harmony with your skin to promote balance, ensuring that natural elements like your skin microbiome are respected and nurtured.
Our four-step skin care regimen is designed for all skin types and tones, regardless of age or gender. Ahead, we share the recommended product for each step—from cleansing to hydration.
Before You Start
We recommend doing a two-day “skin fast” to detox your skin before using our products. By eliminating all skin care products, you are allowing your skin to “reset” improving how your skin functions.
Step 1: Cleanse & Balance with Face Cleanser
Healthy skin starts with clean skin. It is important to cleanse the skin both morning and night to remove impurities like makeup, bacteria, pollutants, dirt, and dead skin cells, allowing it to breathe properly. Our organic, soap-free foaming Face Cleanser gently purifies the skin without removing its natural protective oils while respecting the skin microbiome. Skin is left clean, balanced and protected.
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Step 2: Calm & Prime with Plant Water Mist
Apply Plant Water Mist after cleansing to hydrate, calm, and remove any remnant impurities your cleansing did not catch. This product can be used both morning and night, or anytime to tone and refresh, while acting as a primer to facilitate the active ingredient penetration of your other skin care products.
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Step 3: Hydrate & Brighten with Face Serum
Apply Face Serum after cleansing, or immediately after applying Plant Water Mist; use on wet skin for a deeper hydration. This concentrated phytonutrient-, antioxidant- and amino acid-rich serum soothes and deeply hydrates, boosts collagen production and brightens, so skin looks plump and feels rejuvenated.
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Step 4: Seal & Protect with Oil Complex
Apply two to four drops of Complex Oil onto wet skin after Plant Water Mist and/or Face Serum for deeper absorption and to seal in moisture. This lightweight, organic treatment is rich in Omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids and an array of vitamins, helping to restore the skin’s natural lipid barrier, boost collagen renewal, and encourage skin elasticity. Its non-comedogenic, plant-based formula works to gently protect your complexion, leaving skin nourished and balanced.
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Sep 15, 2020
Taking “Toxin-Free” Personal Care to the Next Level
by Rachel B. Levin
Personal care products are an integral part of everyone’s daily routine. From freshening your breath to styling your hair to moisturizing your skin, it’s nearly impossible to step out the door without slathering some part of your body with a personal care product—especially if you’re a woman. On average, women use 12 of these products a day, while men use six.
But there’s a dirty secret that may be hiding in your personal care products. In the US, the widespread and mostly unregulated use of petrochemicals (yep, chemicals produced by refining petroleum products like oil) in everything from shampoo to aftershave means that we’re practically swimming in synthetic and potentially toxic chemicals. Every day, women expose themselves to an average of 168 chemical ingredients, and men to an average of 85.
Of the approximately 84,000 chemicals on the market, only 1 percent have been studied for human use.
Of the approximately 84,000 chemicals on the market, only 1 percent have been studied for human use. “You don’t know the safety,” says Myriam Zaoui Malka, who is the cofounder of Ingredients® and has 25 years of experience in holistic health and personal care brand development.
Malka explains that the dearth of testing can be traced back to 1938, when Congress passed the Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act, which pretty much left regulatory oversight of ingredients up to the cosmetics industry itself. Since then, the industry has defeated every attempt to revise the law. More than 40 nations have stricter regulations than the US, and some of them have banned or restricted over 1,400 cosmetic chemicals for safety reasons. By comparison, the FDA has banned or restricted only 11.
More than 40 nations have stricter regulations than the US, and some of them have banned or restricted over 1,400 cosmetic chemicals for safety reasons. By comparison, the FDA has banned or restricted only 11.
The lack of consumer protection is bad news for your body. Topically applied synthetic chemicals can cause contact dermatitis and allergic skin reactions—but their dangers are more than skin deep. There’s a common misconception that chemicals in topical products can’t penetrate your skin. On the contrary, says Zaoui Malka, “Your skin is one of the biggest organs in your body, and it’s like a sponge.” When you swallow something harmful, your digestive system may break down the substance and eliminate it from your body before it enters your bloodstream. But when harmful chemicals are absorbed through your skin, there’s no equivalent defense—they hit your bloodstream directly.
Some of the chemicals you absorb from personal care products may accumulate in your organs and body tissues, where they can wreak havoc over time. An array of petrochemicals commonly found in personal care products—including phthalates, parabens, formaldehyde, and more (see the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics’ “Chemicals of Concern” for a fuller list of ingredients to avoid)—have already been linked to serious health issues, including cancer, diabetes, reproductive and neurological harm, birth defects and developmental problems, immune system suppression, asthma, and autism, among other negative side effects.
Choosing products made from natural, plant-based ingredients and scrutinizing ingredient labels for known toxins can help you protect yourself from harmful chemicals—but buyer beware. Some companies exploit loopholes to make it look as if their products do not contain toxic ingredients when, in fact, they do. For example, they may label their products as free of the preservative formaldehyde (a human carcinogen found especially in hair straightening and nail hardening products), yet still include formaldehyde-releasing compounds that pose a risk of toxic exposure.
In recent years, the “clean beauty movement” has led many personal care brands to voluntarily exclude known toxins from their products. While it’s a step in the right direction, Zaoui Malka notes that problems with toxicity and transparency remain rampant in the industry. In formulating and labeling products for Ingredients®, “I’m stricter than the clean movement,” she says, for several reasons.
For one, cosmetics companies are not legally required to fully divulge all of the ingredients in their products. Zaoui Malka explains that even “clean” companies typically don’t disclose fillers and preservatives used to manufacture each “single” ingredient that appears on the label. Across the industry, brands don’t have to list the breakdown of ingredients used in fragrances or that they deem a “trade secret.” That means potentially harmful ingredients may go missing from labels. “There is a lot hidden, even with ‘natural’ brands,” she says.
To make matters worse, many brands try to capitalize on the clean beauty aesthetic with greenwashed packaging that makes claims like “nontoxic,” “natural,” or even “organic”—all unregulated terms—while the product inside is anything but. And even though many brands are moving away from attention-grabbing offenders like parabens, Malka isn’t convinced that the next generation of petrochemical-derived preservatives now replacing them is any safer.
Some type of preservative is always necessary to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi in shelf-stable products, but Zaoui Malka notes that synthetic preservatives also kill beneficial bacteria and fungi that live on your skin, setting you up for an array of skin problems. When absorbed internally, these preservatives disrupt the delicate balance of bacteria and fungi that live in your gut, too, leading to more serious issues such as digestive distress and suppressed immune function. While many organizations that certify clean cosmetics allow synthetic preservatives, Malka refuses to use them in her formulations, opting instead to include probiotics as a natural preservative that also supports your skin’s and your gut’s microbiome.
It’s clear that your health and safety depend on using personal care products that are truly toxin-free. But what will it take for the industry to turn over a new leaf? The Personal Care Products Safety Act, a 2019 bill to amend the 1938 law, is still making its way through Congress, but the chances of it passing are slim. Ingredients® cofounder Eric Malka emphasizes that consumers must demand a higher standard, one that encompasses “what they’ve been asking for all along: purity, transparency, safety, simplicity, and honesty,” he says. Myriam Zaoui Malka adds that all stakeholders within the personal care products industry—from chemists to manufacturers, brand leaders, and retailers—need to respond to that demand by “taking responsibility for the safety and the health of the consumer,” she says. “Change needs to start from the top.”